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Sustainability
21.10.2022

Linen – from plant to the fabric

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Explore the journey of linen – from plant to the fabric. Well-known linen fabrics have to go a long way until they reach our home in various forms – flax is not only a very valuable but also a very whimsical plant. Flax growing was the responsibility of the entire community in old times.

So far, there is no agreement on where flax first appeared – in ancient times it was popular in China and India, and Egyptians used it not only for clothes, sails, or ropes but also for mummification. However, it would be difficult to disagree with the fact that in our country this plant is associated with deep traditions – flax which reached our country more than 4,000 years ago became one of the symbols of the nation. 

Flax in Lithuania

First of all, it should be mentioned that the flax-growing process is much longer and more complicated than that of other plants. But the ancient Lithuanians took this process seriously. The whole family was involved in this work: some were breaking stalks, while others were combing or weaving… Probably this is one of the reasons why linen products have been so cozy up to now. This fabric embraces the values not only of the family but also of the whole community.

The stages of flax growing were associated with various festivals with plenty of games, fairy tales, and songs that have remained to this day. There were also various beliefs. For example, the thinner the linen yarn, the more luxurious the fabric will be and the more praise the weavers will receive. This plant accompanied Lithuanians during all major festivals and linen towels were special gifts for various celebrations. 

Our nation valued not only the material but also the healing properties of this plant. Therefore, they pressed oil from flaxseed and used it to improve health – this has been done these days. Just like today, the firmness of this fabric and its unrestricted applicability were particularly valued: linen fabrics can have both practical value and become a charming home decorations.

After all the complicated flax growing processes, people wanted new products to be durable – just as we do today although for different reasons. We increasingly value quality, responsible consumption, and value-creating products – linen undoubtedly meets all of these criteria. Agricultural work and the village have been tied together in a harmonious way which is now depicted by linen fabrics in order to create a cozy and harmonious atmosphere at home. 

Flax as a plant

In order for flax to flourish, it requires a sufficiently warm (about 20-22 degrees) and humid climate. The soil must also be moist enough (but not too much), fertile, and most importantly with no weeds. Earlier in summer, this weather dominated in Lithuania, but over the years it became hotter and we have fewer rainy summer days. Although such conditions are pleasing to us, they are far from favorable for flax growing. 

Though there are still enthusiasts who are willing to take a successful flax harvest, farmers are doing it much better in France, Holland, and Belgium. The leader in this area is Canada which is the largest producer of flax in the world market. Large quantities can also be found in China, Russia, Ukraine, and Italy. Thus, while it is difficult to grow these plants by ourselves, it is still possible to enjoy high quality and wide-use possibilities. 

Linen versatility – for the food, and for the clothes

It is no secret that flax is used not only to produce various home textile products, accessories, or clothes. These plants are also used to produce food supplements or press oil which can be beneficial not only to the well-being but also to the paint industry. Flax is believed to have healing properties thus this plant is much discussed in both folk and traditional medicine. 

However, the most important thing is the firmness of linen which is closely related to responsible consumption. Talking about linen fabrics, it has been hard to find alternatives to its firmness so far. These fabrics are completely natural, ecological, and harmless, and therefore we contribute to the preservation of nature by choosing linen products. 

Paradoxically, the warming climate has stopped their growth for a while in Lithuania. However, the surviving tradition and magnificent past allow us to be proud of this plant and its value – harmony, and coziness can decorate your home! 

Linen as a fabric 

Linen fabrics have been well-known and used for many years. Thus, nowadays, when we turn to nature more often and cherish deeper values ​​and traditions, we are willing to choose these fabrics for our home environment. What is special about linen fabrics and why they are worthy of our attention? 

How does linen turn into fabric? 

First of all, we should start with the fact that linen turning into fabrics is a quite long process. When the flax is sown, it takes time for the stems to grow and the seeds to get brown – it can last even for a hundred days. After responsible harvesting, the flax is softened with water and then left to dry for some time. The flax stems are then broken with special equipment designed to make the plant softer. 

But that is not all: special combs are used to make this fiber really soft. After this process, the flax is spun and the yarn is then used to weave various products or fabrics. The whole process is totally natural. Hence, end products are considered to be ecological and environmentally friendly. 

Possibilities of using linen 

Ready-made linen fabric can be used for a wide range of purposes starting with our image and ending with a more comfortable household. Linen clothing is particularly popular, and lovers of cozy and tranquil environments will also like linen table serving products, such as table runners, napkins, or mats.

Thanks to its practical features (which we will discuss later), linen fabrics are also good for towel production, and the firmness of the material allows to make firm cosmetic or spacious shopping baskets. Linen does not cause allergies so this fabric can be used even for smaller family members. 

Advantages of linen fabrics

In addition to the anti-allergic properties already above, linen has many more advantages: 

  • Extremely firm and resistant. Linen can be boldly titled as one of the firmest and hardest-to-wear fabrics. Durability is guaranteed! 
  • It remains clean longer. Linen fabric does not easily accumulate dirt so the material looks like new much longer. 
  • No need for much care. Linen fabrics dry quickly and their care is very similar to any other fabrics – it is important not to use too high temperatures and follow the instructions. 
  • Nature and human-friendly. As we have seen, this fabric is completely natural so while using flax, we contribute to the preservation and conservation of nature. We assure you that skin problems will also be avoided.
  • Multipurpose. Linen clothes are worn both in winter and summer, and home accessories easily fit into any fostered style. The variety of colors is also much wider than you might think! 
  • It does not accumulate liquids and dries quickly. These properties are especially useful when using bath or kitchen towels. 

Linen fabrics will appeal to anyone who values organic and high-quality ideas – the more they will be, the more coziness and peace of mind will come to your home. 

Types of linen fabrics

Linen is well-known for its versatility. Hence, handling this fabric allows us to test the most diverse technologies which have an impact on the particular properties and usability of the fabric. What are these techniques?

Finishing techniques 

  1. Washed linen. Washing linen fabrics makes them softer. Therefore, this technology makes this product instantly available with subtle colors and extra softness that would only become such at home after a few washings. 
  1. Softened linen. Here are some ways of softening. Mechanical softening (without using any chemicals) is perfect for clothing fabrics. When softening with chemicals, the linen becomes even softer. It is also suitable for clothing. Chemical and mechanical softening can be used together: then the fabric becomes fluffier, denser, and narrower with the help of chemicals and special equipment. This method can be used for both clothes and home textiles. 
  1. Fitted linen. By using this method, the material becomes denser, and after washing, it is much less shrinks – it is good for both clothes and home textiles. 
  1. Coated linen. This fabric can be covered with special finishes which gives even more benefits. For example, impregnated linen will be water-resistant, and if a stiffening coating is used, the material will be extremely durable and hard. 

Weaving techniques 

  • Melange and melange yarn. These are shade combinations or, in other words, yarns of different colors. All fibers are dyed in a single color and mixed before starting work. At least two colors are used for it. 
  • Jacquard. These are all types of large-pattern fabrics (including linen). Yarns and fabrics can vary in composition but the essential properties (translucency and large-pattern fabric) will remain the same. 
  • Double-sided. As the name says, it is a two-layer fabric that can be both uniform and different in color. This even more enhances the firmness and other benefits of the fabric. This method can be used for both clothes and home textiles. 
  • Huckaback / traditional canvas weaving. Quite loose and uneven weave creates a special texture that produces a perfectly moisture-absorbing fabric, especially used in kitchen or bath towel production. The slightly uneven surface is thought to gently massage the skin.

It is worth noting that production uses not only 100% linen – it can also be mixed with cotton, wool, or even synthetic fabrics, such as viscose or elastane. There are also different patterns for these linen products: the most popular of them are Christmas trees, tracery, ribbons, boxes, and goose feet but there are more interesting solutions.

Care of linen fabrics

Linen fabrics are surprisingly durable and have a long-lasting appearance but in order to enjoy all of these properties, you need to take proper care of them. There are still rumors that linen care is extremely challenging but, in fact, it does not need much care – just follow a few simple tips. 

Washing

Before washing linen fabrics for the first time, it’s important to pre-wash them separately. It’s recommended to use a lighter washing machine program and set the temperature slightly lower than 30-40°C / 86-104°F. Once the pre-wash is complete, you can wash your linen products with other fabrics, but remember not to exceed 40°C. To prevent color bleeding, it’s best to avoid mixing colors and overfilling the drum. Additionally, you can also follow specific tips for other materials.

In order to preserve the appearance of linen fabrics, it is advisable not to use bleaches and detergents containing these elements. This is only suitable for washing white linen. Please note that linen can shrink slightly (about 4-10%) during the first wash but the material itself will only become softer and more absorbent with time. 

Drying

Linen products can be dried in a tumble dryer (with a lower mode). But since these fabrics dry very quickly, they easily dry naturally. After washing, these fabrics crease. If you want to minimize the number of wrinkles, it is worth not wringing the fabric (or doing it very softly) and hanging it so that it does not become creased even more during drying. 

It is advisable to avoid direct sunlight and prevent the products from drying out for too long, as it will be harder to iron linen fabrics. 

Ironing

It is recommended to perform this process when the fabrics are not completely dry so that they are easier to iron often by using steam ironing. If you iron wet products, leave them to dry in a cool, dry, and well-ventilated room.

It is recommended to iron the “bad side” of the fabric. Then it will not get glossy and the colors will not fade away.

It is recommended to use temperatures up to 200°C / ~ 392°F.